The migration now enters Masai Mara

The migration has finally entered the Mara. Big herd came into the sand river area between Koga and Naima Lumbwa hills over the last 3 days where they advance has been slowed down by the amount of grass in the way. We have been watching them on the plains across the Sand River, but the first herds crossed into Masai Mara yesterday. This morning there is also huge gathering of wildebeest that appears ready to cross the sand river again.  Looking onto the Serengeti from the sand river, one can see big herds of zebra and wildebeests heading north though reluctantly. This is due to the amount of grass in their way. The will for sure slow the migration movement north. Though this is still in its’ initial stages, every indication shows that the stage is now set in Masai Mara for the world’s most fascinating wildlife spectacle. We anticipate that as the concentration builds up they will push up north to cross into the Mara.

 

From my observation during my Serengeti visit two weeks ago, the migrating herds have taken two wings one wing heading north from Grumeti area. This is herds is now at Kogatende area and started crossing into Lamai few days ago. Although this are small herds. The main herds are still behind. The eastern wing is the one now moving into the Mara across sand river.

 

The Masai Mara resident population of wildebeest and zebras have also moved west to cross the Mara onto the Mara triangle. They came in about a week ago. Big herd of zebras and a handful wildebeest are now close to Musiara area in the north and many more have gone past rhino ridge heading to the Mara River. Many zebras crossed yesterday towards Serena lodge. The Masai Mara visitors can enjoy the sight of the herds again. 

 

The current updated location of the migration

The herds charging to cross the shallow river

Herds of mainly zebras inside Masai Mara heading west

Delay in the annual wildebeest migration into Masai Mara

 The annual wildebeests migration from Serengeti into Masai Mara National reserve has delayed this year. This is due to the heavy rains we had earlier in the year, that ensured availability of water and pasture in Serengeti. Last year, the migration started almost a month earlier. There is plenty of grass this time round as compared to the same period last year. 

On my safari in Serengeti few days ago, i observed both from the air and on ground that most of the herds are still in the Western corridor. But from eh air, i could see long lines heading east from the current location. I encountered thousands towards Kirawira and on Musabi plains and around Nyasirori, and Grumeti game reserve. So many were crossing the Grumeti river from South to North.

The movement out of these places is taking a two-front heading. Right now most of the north bound herds are near Ikoma gate while the east bound herds are by Four Seasons, with some, mostly Zebras now getting into Lobo area. I think this will be the first herds to cross into Masai as usual between Koga and Naima Lumbwa Hills. However, this might not be fast movement since there is still plenty of pasture along the way. Even if we get some of the first scouts into Masai Mara, it will not be the usual numbers. What has happened is not unusual since the same thing happened 5 years.

Map of Serengeti showing the current location and direction of movement

Hundreds heading North near Soroi Camp

Big herds heading to Grumeti river crossing

Charging to the river

Crossing Grumeti River. The river at this point is quite low.

The herds were moving fast heading North from Kirawira

My 2023 wildebeests Calving Season Photo safari update

Early this year, i ran two great photography safari to South Serengeti (Ndutu) for a wildebeests calving experience. The small groups i led, each capped at only 4 photographers per trip, had a memorable safari of their lifetime. We started our trip in Arusha, then visited Ngorongoro Crater, South and Eastern Serengeti (Namiri) with lengthy stay in South Serengeti where the herds were concentrated. We were lucky in the at did not rain heavily, which allowed us free movement over the plains of South Serengeti looking for calving wildebeest. 

January-February is the peak of the calving season and our safari will perfectly coincide with this peak of the birthing season. The herds did not move to far from Ndutu woodlands, so we had easy access to where they were. The calving this year happened a little earlier in January so but eh time we started our trip on 3rd February, most had given birth. There were hundreds of calves seen on our trip.  The most memorable experience was seeing hundreds of wildebeests crossing Lake Ndutu everyday in what is seen as a test-run, taking the young calves across the muddy shallow lake with many getting stuck while other manage to cross, coming out the other end very exhausted. There was also a lot of predation by Hyaenas, Lion and cheetahs who are normally abound in the area at this time of the year.

The was no shortage of photographic opportunities, from the wildebeests to the smaller creatures. This is what makes a trip great. There was also large flock of flamingos on the shores of the lake. Every morning we would leave camp while still dark and just watch as the day break while we took lots of photos of the birds on the shore against the sunrise. We always stay out the whole day. Our chef at Njozi camp, (Our base in South Serengeti) always prepares best take away meals for us to keep us out on game drive for the whole day.

SAFARI PICTORIAL: ALL PHOTOS CREDIT ©PAUL KIRUI

 

Destination profile: Kidepo National Park, Uganda

 Kidepo Valley National Park lies in the rugged, semi arid valleys between Uganda’s borders with south Sudan in the north west and only 5km from the eastern border of Kenya, some 700km from Kampala. Gazetted as a national park in 1962, it has a profusion of big game and hosts over 77 mammal species. Kidepo is Uganda’s most isolated national park, but the few who make the long journey north through the wild frontier region of Karamoja would agree that it is also the most magnificent, for Kidepo ranks among Africa’s finest wildernesses. From Apoka, in the heart of the park, a savannah landscape extends far beyond the gazetted area, towards horizons outlined by distant mountain ranges. 

 

The park contains two rivers – Kidepo and Narus – which disappear in the dry season, leaving just pools for the wildlife. The local communities around the park include pastoral Karamojong people, similar to the Maasai of Kenya, and the IK, a hunter-gatherer tribe, who lives on top of Mt. Morungole and whose survival is threatened.

During the dry season, the only permanent water in the park is found in wetlands and remnant pools in the broad Narus Valley near Apoka. These seasonal oases, combined with the open, savannah terrain, make the Narus Valley the park’s prime game viewing location especially with its dense populations of Lion, Buffalos, Elephant and many similar angulates.

Kidepo’s elephant population has surged from around 200 in the mid 1990’s to between 650 and 1000 today. The African Buffalo population is now estimated at 10,000-15,000.The Rothschild Giraffe is very notable ,breeding more than 50 individuals from the bottleneck of the mid 1990’s population of three and supplemented  several from translocation. There are also 2 rare antelope species; A Mongalla gazelle and a White Eared Kob. Both animals come from South Sudan

The bird checklist of over 476 species with the common Ostrich, secretary bird, northern carmine bee eater, little green bee eater, Abyssinian scimitar bill and many more colourful and visible species. Some of the regions endemic species of birds includes Rose Ringed Parakeet, Bruce's Pigeon, Clapperton's francolin etc.

 

Getting there:

Kidepo Valley is reachable both by road and flight. However, if you choose to drive to Kidepo, it is advisable to break the journey for a night or two at Murchison Falls National Park, which lies almost halfway between Kampala and Kidepo, (about 305kms). Here, you will also get a change to see Kabalega Falls as well as doing a boat ride on the Nile. You will also have a change to do game drives to see general game. The distance from Murchison to Kidepo is 366Kms and it takes about 7-8hrs.

If you choose to fly, from Kampala, using a light aircraft it will take you about 1hr 30-40mns. Please take note that if you choose to fly, the minimus number of passengers required on each leg is 3. So if you are only 1 or 2, then you will have to pay for an extra seat in order for the flight to operate.

         Jackson's Hartbeeste is one of the antelopes found in the park, often seen in small herds

On my recent visit to Kidepo Valley National Park,  i saw for the first time, The maneless zebra (Equus quagga borensis) This is a subspecies of the plains zebra, spread over the northern parts of eastern Africa. It ranges from the Karamoja district of North Eastern,Uganda into north-western Kenya. It is also found in eastern South Sudan, east of the Nile River, for example in Boma National Park. It is the northernmost subspecies of the plains zebra.

Beautiful Landscape is what adds to the beauty of the park. The you take your eyes from the animals and look around, you still see nature's beauty in the mountains ranges around

A Clapperton's Francolin is one of the park's special birds.

When storms gathers in a distance, it just adds to the beauty of the landscape 

Rose Ringed Parakeet is also another bird found and is one fo the special birds to look for.

Uganda Kob are found in reasonable herds here.

A white eared Kob is one of the special animals to look for. This rare antelope comes from Sudan

Another speciality at Kidepo is the Mongalla gazelle (Eudorcas albonotata ) which is a species of gazelle found in the floodplain and savanna of South Sudan. Its range, may reach the borders of Kenya and Uganda. Though very rarely. It was first described by British zoologist Walter Rothschild in 1903. The taxonomic status of the Mongalla gazelle is widely disputed. While some authorities consider it a full-fledged monotypic species in the genus Eudorcas, it is often considered a subspecies of Thomson's gazelle, while other authorities regard it as subspecies of the red-fronted gazelle. 

Masters of Camouflage: Freckled nightjar playing "Can't see me" tactic 

Kawalakol ranges with Mt. Morungole in the back, lies to the north of the park.

Lions are also found in this park

Apoka Lodge is one of the established lodges in the park and is strategically located. 

Kenya Drops entry PCR test requirement- Lets Travel Again!

 We are delighted to announce that Kenya has removed the PCR Covid-19 test requirement for entry for ALL fully vaccinated travelers. Here is a link to the latest Kenya general travel requirement issued on 11, March 2022.

In Summary:

•All passengers coming to Kenya who are fully vaccinated shall be exempt from the requirement of PCR tests.

•All passengers arriving into Kenya through any point of entry must have a certificate of COVID-19 vaccination. The following categories of travelers are exempt from the requirement:-

a) Travelers with medical conditions precluding vaccination. Such persons shall be required to provide a letter from a recognized medical practitioner detailing the medical reason precluding vaccination.

b) Travelers who have recovered from an active COVID-19 infection or received convalescent plasma in the preceding 90 days. Such persons shall be required to provide a letter from a recognized medical practitioner showing that the person may have recovered from an active infection in the preceding 90 days.

•All eligible unvaccinated travelers arriving at any port of entry into Kenya, must be in possession of a valid COVID-19 negative PCR test certificate conducted within 72 hours before departure regardless of the route of entry. Children below the age of five (5) years are exempt from this requirement.

•Unvaccinated travelers arriving at any point of entry shall be subjected to rapid antigen test at their own cost of 30 USD. Any person who tests positive on antigen RDT will be subjected to a PCR test at their own further cost of 50 USD and self-isolate. Travelers below the age of five (5) years are exempt from this testing requirement.

•

• There will be no paper verification of COVID-19 test results and vaccination certificates upon arrival into Kenya. Travelers should ensure that they have uploaded their vaccination certificate into global haven/panabios before boarding via www.globalhaven.org. 

Fig the Mara Leopard killed by lions

Fig, The leopard queen of Olare-Motorogi conservancy died last even from lion attack on the conservancy between Amani Mara Camp and Olare Kempinski. The two male lions had earlier in the morning killed a zebra fowl, on which they fed on and left but were not too far away. Fig later in teh evening may have got scent of some bones left after he lions fed, she went to investigate and found some bones. She proceeded to feed. But unknown to her, one lioness had seen her and started to stalk, coming around the vehicles which were wt the sighings, surprising her with a fatal attack. Some of the guides in the evening tried to rescue her but was too late (Sorry courtesy of Raphael, Guide at Olare Camp). This is the third leopard i have known for long time to be killed by lions. First was Lorian’s mother, then Olive and now Fig. she is survived by Figlet who is still on the conservancy, hopefully she will take over her mum’s territory.  Otherwise Tito, the other leopardess is also around. So for leopard lovers visiting OMC, there will always be a leopard for you.

I spend time 10 days ago, photographing her for 2 days when she moved into the reserve near the border with OMC.  However, i have seen her since 2014. 

Fig walking along, 10 days ago

Fig and Figlet in 2018

Fig 10 days ago

Fig 10 days ago

The Wildebeests Migration Makes a Dramatic comeback

 In an unusual way at this time of the year, the wildebeest have made another dramatic come back. Over the past week, the concentration in the south of the reserve around the Sand River swelled to an enormous number and around the Naimalumbwa  exactly as they did in July when they first came. In fact everything now is just like at the beginning. The water in the river is quite shallow now, hence easy crossing by the animals. We are glad it is happening all over again.

The return of the wildebeest has brought back life on the Mara plains. For sometimes, earlier in the month after the wildebeests headed south in their traditional  movement south to the short grass grass plains in  southern Serengeti, where thy will spend time until the calving season in February. We believe this has to do with climate changes which has led to changes in the rain pattern. We are currently experiencing short showers in Masai Mara, and this may have pulled back the herds from central Serengeti. We will continue to monitor.